60! Having arrived at that venerable old age which was once considered appropriate for retirement, L’Air du Temps is proudly celebrating a stunning career and generations of fervent fans.
It must be admitted that the fairies who gathered at this scent’s crib, back in 1948, were generous with their gifts… First off, a diabolically clever name expressing a desire for airy lightness after the leaden war years, with their attendant austerity. The newly rediscovered insouciance of French luxury, whose absence made the privations all the harder to bear. Three little words – L’air du temps (which could be translated as “In the Air,” as in “trendy;” word for word, the name means The Air of the Times) create a poetic effect, somewhere between Cocteau and Marivaux, like a desire for freedom, or perhaps a way of highlighting the paradoxical temporality that is so characteristic of perfume and fashion in general.
For what could be more elusively captivating – and sweeter too – than being initiated into “L’Air du Temps”, that virtually philosophical notion that the French language overuses (as much as we overuse the word “trendy”) without quite managing to drain all meaning from the phrase. Might the fact that it has managed to keep a sense of its own grandeur without turning into a caricature of itself be one of the secrets of its success? Perhaps… but that’s not the only one! Betting on the talent and continuing popularity of Lalique crystal to embody what was, back in 1951, barely more than an optimistic notion for the future, was a stroke, if not of pure genius, than at least of grandiose intuition.
“L’Air du Temps,” the doves – symbol of peace, an avant-garde juice blending tradition and modernity with virtuoso… At a time when brands dizzily hype faddish marketing concepts, L’Air du Temps’s story reads practically like a fairy tale… Let’s hope it will be handed down to posterity, if only as a “textbook case” to consider!
From bottle to scent Spritzzzzzzzz! Instantly recognizable, thanks to its famous spicy-floral note, l’Air du Temps hits the bull’s eye with an extraordinary talent for occupying an olfactory space without saturating your sense of smell!
Rose, jasmine, gardenia… There’s something magical in the way this tapestry unfolds, scattering luxurious petals like a veil in a breeze… And in this divinely composed bouquet, to which carnation bestows a spicy signature, a character both unexpected and retro, that has been so important to the scent’s success.
But that’s hardly the only spell this perfume casts: by focussing on different synthetic molecules – some of which were unknown in the world of traditional perfumery at that point, Francis Fabron, the designer, rose to the challenge of sassy modernity with a perfectly gauged sheen of subtle classicism. Like an electric Stradivarius, crinolines of fluorescent satin, or digital parchment paper: at a time when other scents are exploring powdery “coquette”, sticky chypre or bracing floral territories, he composed a delicate score that is as solidly anchored as a monument!
I can already hear the lamentations of all those – both male and female – who miss the original formula…
Which was better, obviously, and now they’ve gone and reworked it. Mandatory changes to conform to current standards, and of course, it’ll never be the same again… So L’Air du Temps has changed, has it? Well, so have we! And would it be more precious to us had it been preserved in some fusty museum, inaccessible to the hoi polloi, like so many of its peers? What is it that makes everything from the past shimmer in the dark recesses of our minds? Have you ever heard anyone say that an updated formula was actually an improvement on the original’s trail?
This plea could, of course, apply to all those classics whose evolution is watched bitterly (and with a bit of snobbery) by the “people had better taste then” set: it’s so chic to play the knowledgeable connoisseur, and compare the new version to the original, isn’t it?
And while I do share their recriminations sometimes – when formulas are sacrificed on the altar of production costs, I’m perfectly happy to play Devil’s Advocate for this perfume in particular!
Probably because of the name…
Change is practically inscribed in your DNA when your names is The Air of the Times … so the least you can do, it seems to me, is go along with them!
In a nutshell
Name: L’Air du Temps Brand: Nina Ricci
Creation date: 1948 Designed by: Francis Fabron Concentration, size(s), price(s): Eau de Toilette1.7-oz. spray (€61). Eau de Parfum 3.4-oz. spray (€72), 1.7 oz. (€53), 1 oz. (€36). Perfume extract, Lalique bottles, ¼ oz. (€220) ½ oz (€400). Gender: Unambiguously feminine! “Official” olfactory family: Carnation Floral Perceived olfactory family: Carnation Floral with that delicately spicy, clove-like note that really is reminiscent of wild carnations! For whom: Lovers of distinguished feminine scents, refined classicism and/or vintage treasures
Sex-appeal factor:
If you evaluate it in terms of charisma (as you should), then it would definitely earn an 8 out of 10! Evolution: A perfect alchemy from start to finish. A hand-stitched olfactory design and a trail that seems “patina-ed” right from the start, with no sudden breaks, no tension, but always twisting and turning! Long-lastingness: Excellent, thanks to the woodsy-spicy base notes! Curiously, the eau de toilette seems lighter, so less long-lasting, but experience shows that the eau de parfum’s trail, be it more intense at the start, doesn’t necessarily last any longer (equivalent remanence).
Innovation potential: in the context of when it was released
No real competition on its own turf since,
except maybe Flower by Kenzo (minus the carnation note)…
Fabienne ANTONIEWSKI Fragrance journalist
From marketing to journalism, the world of cosmetics and fragrance has been the common thread in her career for over twenty years.
A frequent contributor to Elle magazine’s ‘Beauté’ column since 1995, she reconnected through her writing with one of her first loves: perfume.
Helping readers smell and dream, inventing new scenarios, putting feelings into words; she aims to evoke the most intimate and emotional facets of a fragrance, the better to resist reducing it to a banal consumer product.
She still considers that defending the artistic side of perfumery and encouraging creativity and the search for meaning and quality is one of the main points of her profession.