From name to bottle
The name has a nice ring to it, something light and rhythmic, like a thoroughbred filly’s canter. It lets you know what you’re dealing with: the graceful history of a serenissima handbag and the emblematic calèche (horse-drawn carriage) of the most celebrated saddler on the Faubourg Saint Honoré. A reassuring bit of nostalgia… At least for connoisseurs, as it’s obviously a shade more selective than something called Bloomie’s or Gap!
Within the perfectly sealed cellophane, the brown-and-pink box flaunts its refinement with a touch of humor: the Kelly handbag is as big as the calèche, funnily enough!
The inside doesn’t disappoint either: beautifully lined with the bottle tucked in tight, the table is set to perfection!
As for the bottle itself, (the original Calèche bottle, inspired by a horse-drawn carriage’s lantern, has been barely reinterpreted); the house has (literally) capped things with precision: a quarter-turn of the cap causes the nozzle to releases a high-tech spritz, while at the same time making sure you can’t lost the indispensable accessory: this is no gadget, but high art, signed by a house designer who knew how to make technical ingenuity serve the cause of elegance: true luxury indeed!
From bottle to scent
The delicate pink juice is just a press away. Psst!
First impressions on the skin: refined petals (rose, narcissus and mimosa) humming a joyfully feminine tune that ignores the heavy artillery of more-obviously tantalizing formulas in order to suggest an aristocratic, highly nuanced sensuality. But Cuir d’ange (“Angel Leather”, the fragrance’s backstage code name) soon flies off to a different register altogether. And while we’re still talking leather, forget about Russian army boots and the thick coat of smoky-smelling tar they were waterproofed with. The leather here is more in line with the house’s finest glove leather.
Just then, a different evocation slips in. Like an imperfection that was deliberately allowed to go through, the better to distinguish the scent from the smoothly ordinary perfumes our nostrils are constantly overwhelmed with. An odd little detour in the narrative, like a whiff of fresh hay in the stable… A July hay, with accents of dry grass mixed with meadow flowers, and even a vague impression of horse manure carried by the country air… proving our animal natures can rub shoulders with our good manners.
So has leather found itself a new family tree? More plant-based and equestrian (after all, when you’re called Hermès, it’s only fair, right?), almost a stylistic about-face when you get right down to it! But why not, since it works for us…
Kelly Calèche’s trail leaves an almost imperceptibly powdery trace of iris. Chic and very niche! The kind of classy niche that almost makes you long for the easy arguments and olfactory charms of the measured sensuality that is everywhere of late. Cheap tricks, it’s true, but ones whose absence makes the perception of this juice’s elitist, well-orchestrated stance slightly more random and hard to pin down…
In a nutshell…
Name: Kelly Calèche Brand: Hermès Sizes, price: 3.4 fl. oz., 90 Euros Concentration: Eau de toilette Gender: Feminine but neither come-hither nor terribly gender-specific (Could a man wear it? Why not?) “Official” Olfactory Family: leather-floral Perceived Olfactory Family: Plant suede tanned with wildflowers or the inside of a chic lady’s handbag… For whom: For all those who have nothing to prove in terms of femininity, who love big-name fragrances, or who are into subtle or anti-conformist scents (and if you are all 3, then it’s a must!).
Evolution: the fast-evolving opening soon leads from a fresh (almost floral Cologne) top note to a suede/fresh-hay heart that lasts for an hour or two. The residual, iris-y trail is light, but tenacious. Long-lastingness: reasonable, considering the concentration (eau de toilette), and very stable.
Innovation potential:
Sex appeal:
Fabienne ANTONIEWSKI Fragrance journalist
From marketing to journalism, the world of cosmetics and fragrance has been the common thread in her career for over twenty years.
A frequent contributor to Elle magazine’s ‘Beauté’ column since 1995, she reconnected through her writing with one of her first loves: perfume.
Helping readers smell and dream, inventing new scenarios, putting feelings into words; she aims to evoke the most intimate and emotional facets of a fragrance, the better to resist reducing it to a banal consumer product.
She still considers that defending the artistic side of perfumery and encouraging creativity and the search for meaning and quality is one of the main points of her profession.