osMoz > Magazine > Sweet & Lowdown > AQUA ALLEGORIA Laurier-Réglisse by GUERLAIN

 



 
A Day in a Life with…

AQUA ALLEGORIA Laurier-Réglisse by GUERLAIN

 

From name to bottle

Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, in 1999, the Aqua Allegoria collection reintegrated the emblematic territory of fresh eaus while offering a new poetry of nature and fine ingredients. Coming from a house that stakes part of its reputation on the success of its colognes, that’s really saying something. A different tone, unpretentious compositions, the Aqua Allegorias paint small, watercolor landscapes and explore fruit, flowers, woods and aromatic herbs over the course of the seasons – the better to fulfill our desire to get back to nature. Laurier-Réglisse, the latest piece in the collection, fits perfectly into the lineup’s naturalist genealogy. Like most of its predecessors, the name is self-explanatory, and it keeps its promises. Which is not the least of its qualities, since it draws upon one of those unexpected pairings that can’t help but whet our curiosity. If we all have at least a vague idea of what flowers, citrus fruit and mint smell like on their own, and it’s not too hard to conjure up an accord like Mandarine Basilique in your head, it does, on the other hand, take a certain amount of imagination and a more-than-passing familiarity with perfume ingredients to be able to anticipate the effect of the association of laurel (bay leaf) and licorice on our olfactory bulb! More than just a tasty recipe with culinary accents (in the aromatic category), the fragrance has a mouth-watering sensorial surprises in store for us.

The one sour note at this stage of the game: the Aqua Allegoria bottle (in general): originally based on Napoleon’s famous imperial bee bottle, it has fallen prey over the years to attempts at simplification, which, while aiming for an uncluttered look has wound up losing its touch of class instead…

Yet by know, surely everyone knows that with a little effort, minimalism and a strong personality can go hand in hand…!



 

From bottle to trail
Spritzzzzzzzz!
Immediately titillated, your nostrils quiver with pleasure. Fresh, tasty, delightful, all sorts of images pop into your over-stimulated memory. You want to say, “It reminds me of…,” but the references bump into each other and cancel each other out before you can finish your thought… Something never-before smelled? No, you’re sure you recognize… And… To the tune of… There’s something familiar about it, known and even well-known, but so well composed that the cat’ll get your tongue. Except for the laurel of course, an imperial crown of laurel, laid on the heads of victors, or used sparingly (under the name of bay leaf) in the best Mediterranean recipes. A lively, agile bay leaf that sneaks in between the sparkling citrus notes and the bitterness of a slightly orangey bark that’s already exciting our taste buds.
You get a strange, unidentified feeling in your mouth – one that whets your appetite and sharpens your thirst for an iced tea or an effervescent cocktail – but it slips away as soon as you try to put your finger on it. The alchemy continues in a display of plant nuances: shiny, crisp leaf green; luminous, tart lemon green; sap green with a sweet-wood effect when licorice, a skilled illusionist, places an aniseed veil over its fresh exuberance. Some people won’t notice anything, or barely more than a few sparks, so artfully are the fireworks arranged. Not exactly a full-fledged flavor, but much more than a bland cup of herbal tea, Laurier-Reglisse pulls off the challenge of keeping us in an unexpected space somewhere between smell and taste, ‘twixt your nose and your mouth… Yet the only “gourmand” thing about it is the list of main ingredients, and while it does have a “tasty” facet, it’s never simplistic. The trail is refined without mawkishness or concessions to simplicity, delicate, with just enough relief to call forth a new impregnation. The scent is addictive, consider yourselves warned, and though it may not last beyond the summer, it will still leave you some lovely scented memories.

 

 
 

 

 

Laurel
Licorice

 



In a nutshell

Name: Aqua Allegoria Laurier-Réglisse
Brand: Guerlain
Size(s), price(s): Eau de Toilette spray 4.2 oz., €63.
Concentration: Eau de Toilette
Gender: This one smells good on everyone!
“Official” olfactory family: Gourmand-Aromatic
Perceived olfactory family: Fresh aromatic, with just a touch of Mediterranean garden!
For whom: for all budding nature-lovers and tree-huggers

 
Sex-appeal factor:

always tough to judge for this type of composition…
Evolution:
From the crackling freshness of summer dew, an hour of modulation without sudden changes or rushing, with a thirst-quenching, plant-based theme.
Long-lastingness:
Like a lot of fresh eaus, the trail fades away gracefully, keeping just enough of a signature to make it into the “Fresh Eaus with Character “ category – in the same clan as the Diptyques, Annick Goutal and her sister designers…



 
 
Innovation potential:
   
 

8 for the novelty of the accord
   
 


 




Fabienne ANTONIEWSKI
Fragrance journalist

From marketing to journalism, the world of cosmetics and fragrance has been the common thread in her career for over twenty years.
A frequent contributor to Elle magazine’s ‘Beauté’ column since 1995, she reconnected through her writing with one of her first loves: perfume.
Helping readers smell and dream, inventing new scenarios, putting feelings into words; she aims to evoke the most intimate and emotional facets of a fragrance, the better to resist reducing it to a banal consumer product.
She still considers that defending the artistic side of perfumery and encouraging creativity and the search for meaning and quality is one of the main points of her profession.