Like a reminder of its origins – vanilla is a spice, after all – this variation on the theme of vanilla has a peppery opening and aromatic accents. Designed by Fabrice Pellegrin (whom we also have to thank for Do Son, from the same house, among others), Eau Duelle opens with spicy notes of cardamom, saffron and elemi (which, by the way, also brings a light sensation of freshness to the top notes).
That very spicy, even somewhat camphory opening, isn’t necessarily my favorite moment, but it does grant a touch of originality to the way vanilla is treated. Then it is tempered a bit, because you’ll note the presence of “Firnat vanilla” (created by Firmenich) in the composition. A soft, powdery vanilla graced with notes of juniper and black tea, it is nevertheless clearly distinct from typical vanillas.
I even smell a sort of woodsy nuance gradually appearing on my skin. As the subtler French vanilla moves in, notes of vetiver, and perhaps frankincense, seem to come through, bringing a dark side, like a somewhat smoky vanilla. At this point, there is what could be an almost “pencil lead” effect, or at least that’s how it seemed to me, although that aspect seems to change on different people’s skin. In fact, Eau Duelle veers more or less feminine or masculine depending on the person who’s wearing it… which explains, at least in part, the fragrance’s name, which emphasizes its dual nature.
The vanilla may be “dark,” but this eau de toilette’s texture is so fine and transparent that it isn’t the least bit enveloping. That is precisely why I think it can be worn in September (Indian summertime), as it is neither suffocating not imposing. The trail isn’t overwhelming, though it is long-lasting. Yet it can also be worn in winter, thanks to that touch of darkness that grants it a bit of mystery.
