Perfume: A User's Guide

This three-part report will help you find the perfume that's right for you, show you how to wear it, and above all, how to store it for best results.
As the experts unveil their secrets you will find out how the olfactory adventure starts as soon as you approach a perfume counter, where you'll be immersed in a sea of novelty...

By Sabine Chabbert . 16/03/01

Adopting a perfume means determining which composition will share our intimate lives.
Hence it is a statement of a very private nature, as it will establish the olfactory aura you will convey wherever you go. You can sample perfumes on strips of paper without really understanding the different olfactory families and scents that suit you.

Sample on your wrist

The best testing spot is the inside of the wrist where the pulse is felt. Spray lightly, and don't inhale too hastily. Your nose could become saturated as the alcohol evaporates. Let the perfume and the skin get acquainted and discover each other's character.
Raise your wrist to your nose a few times over the next few hours and sniff it gently, with short breaths. You will soon realize what is in fact self-evident: perfumes are alive; they evolve over time, changing with the heat of your skin, and above all, with your personality.
You only have two wrists, so the number of fragrances you can test is limited. But you can also roll up your sleeves and spray a hint of perfume on the inside of the arm. Don't sample more than two fragrances per arm, so as not to confuse the scents. It's infinitely preferable to come back to the perfume counter another day in order to resume your quest in complete peace of mind.

Give it time to bloom

If the perfume on your skin doesn't evolve to your liking, don't give up too soon. A perfume blossoms slowly and reaches the apex of its beauty and expression only gradually. Give it another chance. Little by little the new fragrance will reveal its hidden charms. Only then should you decide whether to go further with it. More than half of the time, decisions are made within the first 12 seconds. But check the scent again three or four minutes later and you'll discover 70% of the perfume's story. The next hour or so will uncover the last piece of the puzzle - known as the end note - which will help you understand how the perfume lives and blooms.

Great noses tell all

Professional perfumers (known as "noses") suggest various ways of sampling a fragrance. Olivier Cresp from Firmenich reveals his method of discerning all its facets.
* On paper strips. Called upon to smell thousands of scents and compositions, perfume creators avoid saturating their noses so that they can follow the evolution of a perfume over several hours. Ideally, the paper strips should be fairly broad and free of printing, as the ink has a strong odor, which will mask the one you're trying to discover.
* On the skin. That's where the alchemy between perfume and skin will take place, if it is meant to be. The best spot to inhale the aroma is the forearm, between the wrist and the elbow, or near the carotid artery where the skin is warmed by the veins. Be careful not to spray more than two fragrances on the same arm to prevent them from overlapping.
* In the air. Spray a little perfume in a room to check its after-smell and staying power.

The Golden Rules

- Never sample a perfume on the back of your hand, let alone on your palm.
- Avoid spraying on the inside of the forearm or near metal jewelry, especially copper pieces, which acidify the skin they touch.
Next issue: Wearing a Perfume and its Range of Bath-products