Lorenzo Villoresi, an artist at the heart of perfume

All the stars call upon this Florentine perfumer when they want to create their own fragrances. His approach is similar to a psychoanalyst's: he listens to his clients, delves into their souls and creates the fragrance that will suit them best . A conversation with a scientist who cultivates his "difference".

By Cinzia Dal Maso . 10/11/01

On the roofs of Florence, a verandah overlooking the Arno River, Santa Croce, and the dome of Brunelleschi. Off in the distance stand the gentle hills of the city. Philosophy and Ancient Religions studies, travels in the Middle East: such is the kingdom of Lorenzo Villoresi, a perfume artist who has managed to revive Florence's Renaissance tradition of perfumery by introducing a touch of modernity.
His den? A mansion in the charming Bardi street, where he recently wecomed, Sting and his wife, Tony and Cheri Blair, Thomas Harris, Billy Joel and many others. "People of all origins come to my home," says Villoresi. "Sensitive people for whom the sense of smell, and perfume in particular, is very important."

Translating words into scents

They all come to have their own very personal and unique fragrances created. Lorenzo Villoresi lets them talk; he listens and discovers even their most intimate secrets. "That is why it is better for them to come alone, with no friends or relatives," the creator explains . "What do they ask for?" He wouldn't say. "My clients confide in me because they know that I am not interested in what they are telling me. It is just to help me create the fragrance. Once that is done, I forget everything."
Fragrances are born out of that very unusual approach. "Clients create the fragrances themselves. I do practically nothing. I am merely an interpreter, the person who knows the alphabet of smells. I translate words into scents; I serve as a mediator between their desires and the fragrance phial. With essences, I recreate atmospheres and emotions. Very often, some beautiful scents reign in man's subconscious."

A tradition to be nurtured with love

As clients reveal themselves through sepaking, Lorenzo Villoresi tests essences on their skin. When the conversation is over, the precious bottle is ready, created according to the rules of the art, for this is indeed art. In all modesty, Villoresi prefers the term "craft." He points out that perfumery is something precious, born out of a rich and sacred tradition, which we must nurture with love, exactly the opposite of what is done nowadays.
"Shopkeepers know nothing about perfume and don't know how to advise their clients. This has been going on ever since perfumery and fashion became closely related, particularly since the end of World War II. Fashion has become the main echo chamber of the perfume industry, and perfume houses adapted to that, then jewelers, singers, actors, and cars: a gradual lowering of standards has occured. The genuine perfume culture has virtually disappeared."

Creating a beautifully fragrant vision

That culture, dating back to the days of Catherine de Medici and her perfumers, is exactly what this scientist, who stumbled upon perfumes almost by chance, is aiming to revive.
"It was like falling in love," he tells us. "I was studying in the Middle East, and I used to pick spices and harvest essences." Little by little, he started mixing them. At first, he created simple blends, then some more sophisticated preparations. By the late 80's, perfume had prevailed over philosophy."

In his workshop, located in a room adjacent to his office, essences, essential oils and spices from around the world are found alongside typically Tuscan elements like laurel, olive wood, cypress and iris root. The question of natural or synthetic ingredients is not an issue here. "When you look at a painting, you see something beautiful, not something that is good for you. It is the same with perfume. It is a beautiful fragrant vision.
If you are studying the concept of well-being, then perfume is no longer the subject. You are talking about aromatherapy. Today, there is tremendous confusion between the two. Aromatherapy is a generic term often used incorrectly by people who don't necessarily know what they are talking about. The same confusion exists between what is natural and what isn't. A perfume creator is a creator of universes and visions. In order to represent those universes, the creator takes advantage of anything that is made available to him. The result is a mosaic that functions well when all the tiles are in place. Representation is the goal."