Frédéric Malle, a perfume producer

The anonymous perfume creator who toils away in the back room no longer reflects the reality in the world of perfumery. Frédéric Malle, who founded in the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle June 2000, wanted to bring certain "noses" out into the open by producing their perfumes. Enjoy this guided tour.

By Bettina Aykroyd 10/03/02

Watch out! This place doesn't look like your usual perfume shop, and it's easy to walk right past it without noticing. It looks more like an elegant curio shop designed and furnished in the spirit of modern decoration. In addition, the fame of this place, located at 37 rue de Grenelle in Paris, gets around by word of mouth from connoisseurs to enthusiasts. Here is a clientele that wishes to distinguish itself and not "smell" like anybody.
Once you enter the shop, the sense of time that is sorely lacking in modern life is restored. The famous architect, Andrée Putman, has played with the depth of the space by creating "a labyrinth bathed in a light that comes from nowhere. The presence of bookshelves filled with carefully selected works, leather chairs and black and white portraits of the nine perfumers give the fragrances another dimension.

Scented pods, a new way of smelling the essence

With his vast experience from working with various perfume companies, Frédéric Malle had the idea of introducing a new way of smelling perfume. Three pods are set up at the front of the shop, three others at the back, allowing the perfect peace and quiet needed to choose a perfume. This is a way of smelling which, up until now, was reserved to perfume creators so they could appreciate their own creations. This patented technique allows to uncover each nuance in the perfume. "It highlights the aura of a composition," says Frédéric Malle. Following this approach that gives the customer a chance to use the tools traditionally available only to professionals, Frédéric Malle has also set up two refrigerated cabinets in which perfumes are stored to protect them from temperature changes, oxygen and light, all enemies of perfume.

Original creations

"I chose perfume makers whose work I respect and who also appreciate each other's work," says Frédéric Malle. "All of them, without exception, accepted the challenge and worked on olfactory combinations that were close to their heart."
Jean-Claude Ellena (First by Van Cleef & Arpels, Eau Parfumée by Bulgari) opted for Angelica in the rain (a wonderful accord of musk, cedar and angelica). "This note, used in tiny amounts up until now, has become a real statement," he says. Edouard Fléchier (Poison by Christian Dior), on the other hand, chose to feature a lily note, a spicy lily from the Mediterranean with fresh plant and moss overtones. And Olivia Giacobetti (Un thé en été by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Hiris by Hermès) developed a light perfume defined by the delicate white lilac.

Each creation is presented in a sleek perfume bottle, wrapped in red tissue paper and cradled in a black box lined in red, the color of passion, of course.