Femme by Rochas: femininity in a perfume

Marcel Rochas used to say, "You should breathe a woman in before you've even seen her." It was with this thought in mind that he decided to create the perfume Femme, which has become the symbol of the sophisticated and sensual women to whom the designer was already paying tribute with his couture creations. But the real story behind this perfume is one of true love.

by Johanne Courbatère 28//03/02

When the great designer met Hélène the model, it was love at first sight. The instant he entered Paul Poiret's atelier, Marcel Rochas surrendered to this young lady's charms. The perfume was his wedding present to her.

A second encounter

Well before meeting the love of his life, the designer was already thinking about creating a perfume that would sing the praises of femininity after the painful war period. In 1944, he spoke extensively of his project with a young "nose" named Edmond Roudnitzka. So, Femme is not only a tribute to his beloved, but also the first masterpiece of one of this century’s more talented perfume creators, who went on to compose Eau d’Hermès and Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior.

An original and sensuous accord

Having introduced corselets and basques and other corsets into his couture creations, Marcel Rochas insisted that the fragrance be infinitely sensuous and that it leave an unforgettable trail. Edmond Roudnitska proposed an original fruity-chypre that marked the beginning of a new era in the history of perfume. The warm and mouth-watering peach top notes mixed with cinnamon and plum announce the velvet of Grasse jasmine and the almost aphrodisiacal magic of ylang-ylang. Then, like a caress, comes the voluptuous middle note of sandalwood and amber. And in the end note, musk set the seals on this alliance.

A Lalique flacon with Mae West's curves

Crystal-maker Lalique designed the bottle according to Marcel Rochas' instructions. He was thus inspired by the voluptuous curves of Mae West, a client and close friend of the designer. It was for her that Rochas created the famous black-lace corset that appears on the perfume case.

A perfume for subscribers only

Because of shortages during the war, Femme was at first sold in a limited edition to subscribers only. It wasn't revealed to the general public until 1945, at an exhibit in honor of Rochas' friend Paul Poiret. Already appreciated by elegant high-society women, Femme achieved instant success. Even today, it is the fragrant emblem of the quintessential woman.