A “Green” Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena

In his perfume-design laboratory amidst the greenery of Cabris, near Grasse, Hermès’s in-house perfumer opens the door to his garden of scented delights…
Interview by Fabienne Antoniewski

What does “a green scent” mean to you, Jean-Claude Ellena?

I found out about green scents in the 70s, looking at the work of the 20th-century painter Josef Albers. There’s a painting he called "Green Scents” that shows one square inside other squares. I loved that picture. I could smell it. For perfumers, the color green borrows from many different forms of expression. There are matte greens, like the smell of freshly cut grass; shiny greens, like the smell of lemon leaves; raw greens, like the smell of green pepper; hard greens like the smell of galbanum; soft greens, like hyacinth…

How does being surrounded by greenery inspire you?

Green is the color you see the most of (except in cities). Visiting the Bagatelle Rose Garden in full bloom, for instance, before you get sucked in by the obvious color of the roses themselves, the first thing you notice is all the different shades of green. Getting back to greenery – and therefore to nature – means putting the obvious to one side for a moment, in order to nourish my artistry differently. Getting back to greenery means taking your time.

What’s your favorite “green” ingredient?

I don’t have one. An ingredient becomes my favorite when it fits my needs.

Is there a “green thread” connecting the different fragrances in the Jardins d’Hermès collection?

I don’t think so. The thread that connects those gardens is water. The perceptible green notes express a form of naturalness.

Jean-Claude Ellena, what makes you turn “green with anger”?

My own stupidity.

Jean Claude Ellena’s most-recent fragrance:

Un Jardin après la mousson, Hermès