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Miss Dior Chérie is now… Miss Dior

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 13:53:42 +0000

Reworked in 2011 by François Demachy, Dior’s house perfumer, Miss Dior Chérie’s new name is Miss Dior!

By the same token, Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau is now Miss Dior Eau Fraîche.

So what about Miss Dior? What happened to the green-floral-chypry scent from 1947 that was inspired by Christian Dior’s New Look?

Don’t worry! Fans of that fragrance can still find it, by the name of Miss Dior Eau de Toilette Originale… just as the extract version is now called Miss Dior Extrait de Parfum Original. You still with me?

In any case, Natalie Portman’s many fans can rest assured, the actress is still the face of the modern fruity-floral-chypry scent… whether you call it Miss Dior or Miss Dior Chérie!

What do you think? Which name do you like better, Miss Dior Chérie or Miss Dior?

With Monsieur, Gaultier creates a line of cosmetics better suited to men’s needs

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 16:10:17 +0000

According to Jean-Paul Gaultier, ‘Inside every man sleeps a Monsieur’… Monsieur is the name of the skin-care and make-up line for men that the couturier will be launching late March. Exit the ‘Tout Beau / Tout Propre’ (All Clean and Handsome’) line, even if a few products, like the smooth complexion foundation, will still be in the catalogue. Less avant-garde than the earlier line, Monsieur proposes a few make-up items with a more consensual appeal (like tanning powder, under-eye concealer, eyebrow tamers, fluid foundation). What’s still revolutionary about it is that there’s a range of veritable skin-care products (moisturizers, vitality line, shaving products, anti-shine) and not just cleansers. Another new item to look out for: ‘Monsieur, Eau du matin’, a spicy-woody energizing scented friction. Price: €14 to 45

Marni joins the Estée Lauder group

Tue, 27 Sep 2011 12:51:52 +0000

Trendy Italian fashion brand Marni has taken up the challenge of launching their first fragrance. And they’re doing it right: they have signed an exclusive license with one of the most important international cosmetics groups, Estée Lauder.
The American company also creates fragrances for a number of fashion brands: Tom Ford, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, and, since July of this year, Ermenegildo Zegna… another Italian ready-to-wear house!

Do you know Marni fashions?

Serge Lutens’ De profundis and Vitriol d’Oeillet: flowers, but no funeral wreaths, please!

Mon, 09 May 2011 12:27:16 +0000

What could Serge the Great come up with to surprise us in 2011? The year had gotten off to a good start with Jeux de peau, a wild scent with notes of toast and brioche. So we had to wonder what he could do to top that. It turns out it will be flowers, but not your ordinary floral. The first is a ‘vitriol carnation,’ seen from an ultra-spicy angle. Fans of pepper, clove and nutmeg, this ‘angry fragrance’ is for you. A few woody notes (cedar perhaps? or maybe rosewood?) give this flower a masculine touch. After all, as the designer points out, men wear carnations on their lapels. Preferably ‘handsome young hoodlums.’ Although the trail is powdery and balmy, you have to be patient and give Serge’s carnation time to really feel like a flower, in olfactory terms. Which is not at all the case for the second scent, De profundis, available exclusively from the Salons du Palais Royal. This time it’s a real floral, with nothing sweet, balmy or marshmallow-y about it. Which makes sense, because with a name like that, you would hardly expect something light or gourmand! Indeed, De profundis is a fragrance inspired by… death. Seriously. The Latin name means, ‘From the Depths,’ or ‘From the dark depths’ as Baudelaire put it. De Profundis is the name of a long poem Oscar Wilde wrote from jail when he was overwhelmed by despair. Lutens went even further, having it come from the grave! Where, sadly, the deceased can no longer smell ‘the gladioli, chrysanthemums and dahlias’ that waft from this fragrance… which is green, almost aldehyde-like and darkly delicate as well, with its chamomile / withered peony effect. ‘Death is obviously a woman,’ Lutens explains. But De profundis, with its woody-hay tonalities is not for women only. The designer points out that, ‘courage, suicide and dizziness’ are all masculine words in French. As for the juice itself, it has a splendid violet hue. The color of mourning of course. Anger and mourning: Serge is at the top of his form. And he’s already thinking about his next creations. Lucky us!

Nicolas Olczyk

Unbridled creativity, genius or provocation? Is Serge Lutens overdoing it?

Ermenegildo Zegna Parfums joins the Estée Lauder Group

Fri, 08 Apr 2011 10:06:51 +0000

Men’s ready-to-wear label Ermenegildo Zegna has announced that they are leaving YSL Beauté (L’Oréal) and signing with Estée Lauder. As of July 1, the house’s fragrance license, which celebrated its centennial in 2010, will become part of the American group. Estée Lauder already designs fragrances for a number of luxury labels, including Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger. This new agreement concerns Zegna fragrances, as well as any future developments in the skin-care sector. Ermenegildo Zegna currently counts 5 men’s scents in their collection. Info and photo: Zegna.

Do you know any Ermenegildo Zegna fragrances?

LVMH group takes a dramatic stake in Hermès

Tue, 02 Nov 2010 14:46:29 +0000

The LVMH luxury group – which owns, among other fragrance houses, Dior, Givenchy and Guerlain, as well as the Sephora perfumery chain – has just announced that it has become a major shareholder in Hermès International. Bernard Arnault now owns approximately 15% of the famous saddle and leather-goods’ maker (17.1 % according to LVMH’s press release, 14.2 according to other sources). More than 70% of the prestigious company is still owned by the founding family’s heirs. Nevertheless, the move means that LVMH is now the single largest shareholder in Hermès, leading the press to speculate about LVMH’s motivation. The May 2010 death of former Hermès president Jean-Louis Dumas opened up questions about the house’s future. The president of LVMH group has stated that the group has “no intention of launching a tender offer (or) taking control of Hermès,” adding that their goal is to help keep this historic French luxury house French. These buzzworthy financial dealings prove LVMH group’s impressive adaptability.

Zippo lights an olfactory fire

Wed, 20 Oct 2010 14:29:16 +0000

American lighter brand Zippo, founded in 1932, is presenting their first men’s fragrance. Christened Zippo Original, it was developed in partnership with the Italian company Mavive. The range includes three other products: an after shave, a deodorant spray and a deep-cleansing gel. Zippo Original’s concept and packaging reflect the brand’s iconic design, which has, in fact, already inspired several other fragrance houses. The Zippo fragrance is being described as a woody aromatic scent opening with fresh, bracing notes of bergamot, grapefruit and red apple, and segueing into spicy-aromatic notes of pepper, sage and lavender before evolving towards a warm, woody trail of patchouli, cedar, vetiver and vanilla. The fragrance was designed to accompany men on both their day-time adventures and their flaming night-time passions. Product availability depends on country. For more info: www.zippofragrances.com

SAO Conference Perfume in Asia on October 12

Wed, 06 Oct 2010 09:20:39 +0000

On Tuesday, October 12, 2010, the Friends of the Osmotheque Society (SAO) are hosting a conference called “Perfume in Asia: Focus on Japan” at 6:30 P.M. at Galerie Nicolaï (25 rue Montpensier, Paris 1er). The conference will be given by Pascale Elmalan, a strategic-marketing consultant in the world of cosmetics and fragrance. The presentation, which will be followed by a cocktail, is part of a cycle on the theme of perfume around the world. To reserve, contact Sophie d'Auber: sdauber@akeonet.com or Tel (+33) (0)6 60 63 68 80. Ticket price: 15 euros for non-members (8 euros for students).

Coty signs with Lady Gaga

Wed, 29 Sep 2010 08:10:39 +0000

Having already come up with celebrity fragrances for the likes of Gwen Stefani, Kate Moss and Beyoncé, the Coty group is now going to develop perfumes with the extravagant Lady Gaga. The singer, who just won 7 MTV Awards, has signed a long-term agreement with Coty for fragrances bearing her name. The first scent should be reaching stores in the first quarter of 2012. The star’s fans are hoping for a complex juice and in-your-face packaging... for a fragrance in the image of the American star: bold and totally outrageous. Info via WWD; photo: Wikipedia.

Roberto Cavalli signs with Coty

Mon, 02 Aug 2010 09:39:19 +0000

Italian couturier Roberto Cavalli and the fragrance group Coty have announced the signature of a licensing agreement for creating, developing and distributing Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli fragrances. This new agreement will enter into effect in July 2011. The goal is to “reinforce the (brand’s) fragrances’ international presence”. The first launch of a Cavalli fragrance under the new Coty Prestige license is scheduled for spring 2012. “With his colorful and elite sense of style, Roberto Cavalli brings an undeniably unique signature to fashion. He has impressively influenced trends for decades, establishing himself as a world-renowned fashion icon,” declared Bernd Beetz, Coty Inc.’s CEO. The Italian couturier, who will be 70 this year, is also celebrating 40 years of fashion in 2010. Photo of Roberto Cavalli: H&M