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Essences of Yesteryear
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| A creative parallel can definitely be made between perfumes of the 20s and 30s and those of today. Not convinced? Just take a look at how houses are evoking their heirloom scents in their new releases. At Jean Patou, the classic Joy (1930) – a rich floral bouquet based on rose and jasmine - inspired Enjoy (2003), a fruity floral with a modern charm. At Lanvin, Eclat d’Arpège is the heir to Arpège, an aldehyde floral successfully launched in 1927. Like the fragrance – fruitier and more woodsy –, the original spherical bottle was reworked for greater transparency. At Caron, Fleurs de Rocaille (1933) inspired Miss Rocaille (2004), a fresh floral with green accents. |  Joy, Jean Patou |
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Above and beyond these variations that glorify brands’ history and bestow an image of “creative artisans”, other houses have found ways to innovate by reinventing pre-WWI trends. Guerlain, for example, was inspired by its own rich olfactory heritage to create L’Instant, a modern floral-oriental whose spirit and design clearly call to mind the house’s creations from the turn of the last century. For L’Instant pour Homme, the very Art Nouveau design is the perfect vector for this retro, 30s image.
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 Habanita, Molinard |
The parallels between yesterday and today don’t stop there; they can also be felt in the structure of the essences themselves . Thus the olfactory construction of Eau Noire (Christian Dior by Hedi Slimane, 2004), a sweet lavender scent with whiffs of amber, wood and vanilla could call to mind Caron’s 1934 classic ‘Pour un Homme’. At Cartier, the new Le Baiser du Dragon is presented as a woodsy scent for women, an essence with Oriental accents highlighting vetiver, traditionally used in men’s fragrances. But wasn’t that also one of the brilliant innovations that made Molinard’s ‘Habanita’ so successful? And it was launched way back in 1921! Still popular today, it’s a long-lasting Oriental that revels in vetiver. |
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 Prada,Prada |
One of the most successful scents from back then was Shalimar (1925), with its powerful trail of vanilla and amber. A key note from the 20s that has inspired such recent launches as Miss Me (Stella Cadente), in which amber is wedded to benzoin and tolu balm; and Prada (Prada), an intense amber spiked with woodsy touches. For men, Cologne Blanche by Dior picks up the amber structure and softens it with orange notes. |
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Another trend from the 20s was perfume designers’ search for exoticism. A theme that was manifest on every level, from the creations’ names (Colony by Patou, Shalimar by Guerlain, etc.) and advertising campaigns to the choice of essences. That trend is also apparent today, with L’Artisan Parfumeur’s “scents captured by a wandering perfume creator” (Bois Farine, 2003 and Timbuktu, 2004) and Hermès’ invitation to discover the exotic scents of Egypt (Un Jardin sur le Nil, 2005). |
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M E N U
‘Roaring Twenties’ Sensations - Essences of Yesteryear - Remembrance of Scents Past