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Trend Notes
Elixirs & Potions
From pharmaceutical preparations to liqueurs, elixirs are associated with potions, and therefore with mystery. The theme has inspired several houses this season, from Dior to Hermès via Cacharel. Pure Poison Elixir (Dior) proposes a more ambery, powdery version of Pure Poison, a magical spell enriched with almond, vanilla and cocoa absolute. Amor Amor Elixir Passion (Cacharel) unveils the more solar note of Tahitian tiare flower and a trail enriched with benzoin and woods. At Hermès, Elixir des Merveilles attracts with its woodsy waves of vanilla tinted with candied orange.
At Givenchy, the theme of mystery is associated with the duality of a naughty or nice woman. A carnal yet crystalline (orchid, saffron, oak absolute) potion of a perfume, strengthened by a bottle that is both pure and somber. And by its communication campaign, presenting two faces of the same woman, with the catchphrase: 'ange ou démon... elle seule le sait' (‘angel or devil… only she knows’).
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For men, the potion theme appears in Viktor & Rolf’s first men’s scent, a woody Oriental christened Antidote.
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Pure Poison Elixir
Dior |
Amor Amor Elixir Passion - Cacharel |
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Stella in Two Amber
Stella McCartney
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Perles - Lalique |
L'Homme
Yves Saint Laurent
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Prada pour Homme
Prada |
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Retro-modernism
After the launch of Prada’s first scent, for women, everyone’s been waiting for the first scent for men. Like the female version of Prada, Prada pour Homme radiates an impression of creative luxury with a vintage feel. Miuccia Prada wanted a rich and sophisticated scent ‘combining contemporary design with old-fashioned attention to detail’. The fragrance was built around an Amber accord refreshed with a Fern tonality evoking the smell of old-fashioned shaving soaps. For his men’s scent L’Homme, Yves Saint Laurent was inspired by Bauhaus, the early 20 th-century school of art and architecture. The sophisticated and surprising bottle is adorned with a bulky steel logo cap. The woody fragrance (vetiver, cedar) is enhanced with floral and aromatic notes.
Among the new scents for women, Perles by Lalique is a chypre potion, a nod to fragrances from the Roaring 20s. The bottle for this vintage haute-couture style extract is adorned with black-and-white spotted feathers. Stella McCartney presents not just one but two new perfumes: Stella in Two Peony, a peony-rose floral in a stylized, old-rose hue. And Stella in Two Amber, a sexy amber scent enhanced with a rose note, which comes as a solid perfume in its powder-case package.
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