MEN, a scent-sation of freedom

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Being male today… For Italian designer Giorgio Armani, that means ‘being aman who asserts himself, who cultivates the art of being just, absolutely true to himself (…): no showing off, no embarrassment, no inhibitions. A state of mind to which the ad campaign for their latest men’s scent, Attitude, clearly subscribes. In this black-and-white exposure, both physical and mental forces are simply present, naturally and obviously, without making any demands. A strong concept that can be found in several other campaigns for men’s scents launched this spring. Men are taking it all off and flaunting it freely, in visuals that seem to be made by men for men. The man in the ad for Light Blue pour Homme (Dolce & Gabbana) is comfortable with his sexy image and his Mediterranean impertinence. And men have no problem acknowledging their desire to pamper themselves, as the Fleur du Mâle (Gaultier) ad, in which the model is soaking in a milk-and-flower bath, suggests. Here again we see a strong concept that has been observed in the men’s skin-care sector (Lancôme Men, Boss Skin, Nickel…): uninhibited men who enjoy taking care of, and choosing for, themselves.

Fragrance bottles

As for the bottles, the current trend for men is for heavy, statuesque, luxurious objects. Like L’Homme, by Yves Saint Laurent, and its hardware-look cap and Attitude by Armani, which evokes an art deco, onyx-and-silver lighter. At first glance, the bottles suggest an image of thoroughbred fragrances with a well-defined identity. While freshness and gentleness are present, the message is clear: these are designer fragrances, and not some cologne or after-shave associated with hygiene. As in the ad campaigns, there is the idea of men becoming emancipated. Another hot trend: the metal plaque set into the bottles. They can be found on men’s scents from Prada, Viktor & Rolf, Cerruti and Jacomo. Which doesn’t necessarily mean there can’t be lighter-hearted details, like the “wax seal” cap dripping down the Antidote (Viktor & Rolf) bottle. Freedom is very present in younger fragrances like Amor pour Homme (Cacharel), with its packaging inspired by street art. But also in the Black XS (Paco Rabanne) bottle, with its thorny-rose “tattoo”, and the high-tech, cell-phone shaped bottle for Now Men (Azzaro).

Products

To complement the new men’s scents, brands are offering more and more products with a focus on skin care that men enjoy using, like after-shave balms, which really care for the skin and are starting to replace more traditional splash-on after shaves. And for fragrance houses, the step from fragrance to skin care is one that they are taking more and more naturally. Thus Dior Homme fragrance’s name and identity inspired the skin-care line Dior Homme Dermo System.
And for the fragrances, houses are also innovating with morepractical products, like travel-sized sprays, an idea that women have already adopted, in the form of purse sprays. So at Chanel, for instance, Allure Homme Sport comes in a refillable mini spray bottle, which is practical for both traveling and for taking to the gym.

The challenge for the future will doubtlessly be in finding new forms for fragrance. Men are demanding longer-lasting scents, so several designers – like L’Artisan Parfumeur with its latest men’s scent, Fou d’Absinthe – are offering higher concentrations for men. With ‘L’Impact de Pour Un Homme’ Caron has even created an extract version of its star men’s scent. Another innovative idea: this spring, at exclusive points of sale only, Guerlain presents Oud Sensuel, an oriental fragrance for men, that comes as a fragrant oil.