The Quest for Vintage Perfumes
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The Quest for Vintage Perfumes

07 january 2014

Haven’t we all dreamt of reawakening memories with a scent from long ago, like Proust and his madeleine? Or lusted after fragrances on eBay that can no longer be found on the shelves of perfume stores? The vintage trend isn’t limited to fashion and design – perfumistas can be drawn to its trail, too. So Osmoz stuck its nose into the hunt for vintage fragrances, the better to understand the phenomenon…

In these hectic times, when more and more new perfumes seem to be launching all the time, and scents are constantly being discontinued, it’s hard to imagine that fragrances can be preserved for several years. And yet, just like good wine, they can sometimes even improve with age, thanks to maceration. With a bit of luck, fragrances that have been kept away from light and heat (their worst enemies), will mature without showing their age – except perhaps their style gives away the period in which they were composed.

It was hard not to notice last year’s flurry of articles fretting about the possible demise of Shalimar or N°5 if the European Commission decided to reduce perfumers’ palettes by banning certain natural ingredients, because of the risk of allergies. Yet regulations and restrictions are nothing new – they’ve been around for years! Plenty of classic scents have already undergone reformulations, substituting new ingredients for older essences that have become “illegal”. The outcome? Fragrances that are less full-bodied, long-lasting or edgy – in a word, blander scents.

 

So plenty of devoted fans head to the web in search of the un-retouched versions of their favorite fragrances. Beauty forums, eBay, discount sites and more… true believers will try anything in their quest for the Holy Grail: a discontinued Caron, an old-time Guerlain, or a Patou that has become almost impossible to unearth… Prices can go sky high for discontinued perfumes, like Cacharel’s Loulou Blue, which hasn’t been available in stores for over 10 years, but was pretty popular in its day.

The internet isn’t the only place for perfumistas who are desperately seeking “vintage” fragrances. Flea markets and yard sales can contain hidden treasures – often at unbeatable prices, if the sellers don’t realize what they’ve got. There are also specialized events aimed at collectors and aficionados, like trade shows and exhibits. And vintage perfumes are sometimes even auctioned at top-of-the-line houses, like Drouot – where the sky’s the limit for the most recherché items!

Of course, if you’re feeling nostalgic and you’re near Paris, you could always stop in at the Osmothèque, in Versailles. This veritable scent-uary is like a giant perfume library, where you can find everything from totally forgotten fragrances to current favorites. It’s the perfect place for everyone – from newbies to old hands – who’s looking for scents and sentiments. Poiret’s Le Fruit défendu, Coty’s Chypre, Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris and more. So many scents from the Golden Age of perfume are there for you to discover… or to enjoy once more!

Sophie Normand

Sophie Normand

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Even though I’ve been fascinated by perfume since I was a teenager, I still studied first law and then journalism. I started writing professionally, and then about three years ago I thought of doing a blog about perfume. Alongside that, I share my passion for perfume through other media as...

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