OSMOZ - a new look at fragrance

Annie Buzantian

Originally from Rumania, but having lived in the States since the 70s, Annie Buzantian is a master perfumer for chez Firmenich in New York. In 2003, she won the American Society of Perfumers’ ‘Lifetime Achievement Award’, for the body of her work .

Annie, tell us a little bit about yourself, about the fragrances you’ve created.

When I got to the States, New York was the capital of innovation and fashion, and the opportunities for women here were fantastic. By a stroke of luck, I started out as a lab assistant at Universal Oil Products (later Quest and now Givaudan). Eventually I moved up to the position of junior perfumer, and in 1972, I joined Firmenich. I didn’t train to become a perfumer in the usual way.

When I first got here, I didn’t know anything except that I loved blending colors! My first creation was called, ‘Love’s Musky Jasmine’. Since then, I have created or co-created fragrances like Clinique’s Happy for Men, Armani’s Acqua di Gio, Victoria’s Secret’s Pink, and many others. Among the most rewarding experiences in my career, have been my collaborations with my dear friend and colleague, Alberto Morillas. Together we have created several fragrances that have been regarded as ‘American Classics’ like Estée Lauder’s Pleasures, Safari pour Homme, and Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy. Some of them are particularly dear to my heart in that they symbolize the “American Dream,” which I had when I arrived in New York.

What influences you as a designer?

I embrace everyday life as a wondrous place where almost anything can be a source of influence, especially images. My perfumery is very intuitive. Sensorial too, I play the piano, and I love to cook. I enjoy working closely with brands so that we can design fragrances together. I find much inspiration in simplicity and love. My most beautiful creations are my two daughters.

How can we recognize one of your fragrances? What are, in your opinion, their distinguishing characteristics?

I would say that they are all luminous, joyful compositions, fragrances with a very fluid signature. I have a predilection for green notes, as well as for rose and jasmine. On the other hand, dark, dense notes aren’t really my style; they don’t come to me spontaneously.

Do you think that being a woman influences the way you create… and if so, in what way?

Absolutely! Don’t they say “Men are from Mars, women are from Venus”? (laughter). You know, with men and women, we can have the same creative goal and totally different interpretations. That’s probably why I enjoy designing men’s fragrances as much as women’s.

What other designer’s fragrance(s) do you wish you had created? And why?

I would have loved to have designed Coco, by Chanel. And Diorling, too, a fragrance by Dior that isn’t made any more. It’s the most gorgeous perfume ever made (probably because it was my first perfume). It’s a chypre scent they stopped making in 1979. I bought as many bottles as I could, and I still have some in my fridge. I don’t wear it – it’s just for the pleasure of being able to smell it.

How do you envision the future for fragrances? Do you have any hopes for the future?

I wish there were fewer launches so we could devote more time to working on our creations. Also, I wish that wearing fragrance was a bolder gesture, a signature statement, the way it used to be. Wearing fragrance is a way to flaunt your style. Personally, I think we have to be able to reinvent everything, and have a good time doing it! We can, since the world of fragrance offers unlimited possibilities…