osMoz > Encyclopedia > Raw materials > Iris > Iris (Iris Germanica, Iris Padilla, Iris Florentina)

Iris (Iris Germanica, Iris Padilla, Iris Florentina)

Category Iris

Powdery, woody-green, violet.

Native to the Far East, today iris is produced mainly in Italy and Morocco.

After three years of growth, the roots are peeled, dried, ground and steam distilled to extract the essence. This process is long, complicated and low-yielding, hence the high cost of the essence (over $600 a pound). Purification of the essence eliminates the fatty acids and yields the absolute.
Perfumers re-create the extraordinary fragrance of certain varieties of the flower because no method of extraction has proven conclusive.

Iris absolute is one of the most expensive products in the perfumer's palette and is used only in luxury perfumery.
Rhizomes, in the form of powder, are used both in talcum powder and face powders.
Rhizomes in a dried form can be placed in linen closets to freshen their contents.

The Greek root of the word iris means rainbow, but also messenger. The goddess Iris appeared in the form of a rainbow, delivering divine messages to mortals from the gods. The flower was associated with the gods Osiris and Horus. The iris engraved on the forehead of the Egyptian sphinxes represent Horus. The flower was also the inspiration for the symbol of the lily representing the French monarchy.

Its odor is said to have a positive influence on behavior.


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